Right. Where to start. We have been quite busy since the last post.
We decided to leave Ilha Santa Catarina as it was far too touristy, but before we did we went for an epic trek round Morro Do Arranas.
I only found out that this translated as Spider Hill when I got back, and thank god i didn’t see too many on the way. Luckily we chose a day when it was 40 degrees, and the majority is uphill on really rough terrain.
The view was incredible, and we were joined by dolphins at one point who swam right past us.
We had heard that there are a few German towns a few hours North of Ilha Santa Catarina, the most obvious of which is Blumenau. We knew there were a few Bavarian looking buildings but I was not expecting this:
Unfortunately we had just missed Summerfest (Oktoberfest in Summer) and the town was quite quiet but it was still surreal supping on a stein in the middle of a tropical rain-forest.
From Blumenau we headed North again leaving Santa Catarina and entering Parana where our first stop was Curitiba. 2 Quotes from the Lonely Planet – “Curitiba is not particularly sexy or sophisticated” and “It is not a beautiful city”. Bollocks:
We have really enjoyed our stay here. There is a really interesting art and music scene, and in the 70’s and 80’s a lot of money spent preserving old colonial buildings so it is a great place to walk around. It also on the high plains so is much cooler then any where else we have been yet – 25 to 30ish degrees.
From Curatiba we fist went to Vila Velha, a series of ancient sand stone columns eroded over thousands of years.
Then something we had been really excited about. The Sierra Verde Express, a train that runs from Curitiba to Morrietes along the side of jungle covered mountains, over huge gorges and waterfalls with views all the way to the Atlantic. This was, without any shadow of doubt, the worst tourist experience of my life. We had a “tour guide” even though we specifically bought tickets for a carriage with out one. Her microphone was turned up to 11. For 3.5 hours.
Anytime anything of interest came up she would urge everyone to climb over each other to wildly point their cameras vaguely in the right direction and click away like a maniacs. It was soul destroyingly dreadful. I firmly believe that most people are intelligent enough to be able to look out the window with out instruction and locate for themselves the 200 ft waterfall, and even take a picture of it if they felt like it. In one of the photo opportunity scrums the fat bloke in front of Nikki elbowed her in the face whilst flailing his camera laden arms around and broke her sunglasses. Anyway, to be fair the view was epic and if you could tune out the “tour guide” and fight off the other deranged tourists there was some amazing stuff to be seen. Even though we had return tickets we took the bus back….
Leaving for Igacu falls tomorrow night, popping into Paraguay for some tax free shopping, then into Argentina for steak, wine and camping. See you again!
Just before I go a quick update for “New Stuff I like”
10) Shouting Oi! to everyone and not getting strange looks
11) Curitiba. You are wrong Lonely Planet, wrong I say.
You’ll have to let me know what a normal Argentinian thinks of the renewed Falklands dispute…
We are adopting a strict “don’t mention the war” policy now we are in Argentina. Yesterday was our first day and the front cover of one of the national papers depicted protestors burning the Union Jack….
Interesting. Sam & I didn’t get on with Curitiba! I have to say that we agreed with LP on that one. Although, we did find a fantastic all you can eat vegetarian buffet there which might have been worth the visit alone as I was suffering after all that meat in Argentina. Loving all the photos. Have fun in Igacu (stay on the Argentinian side if poss and be careful in over the border in Paraguay – it’s know as the town full of thieves I believe). xxx