Travel Blog 2010

Right. Where to start. We have been quite busy since the last post.

We decided to leave Ilha Santa Catarina as it was far too touristy, but before we did we went for an epic trek round Morro Do Arranas.

I only found out that this translated as Spider Hill when I got back, and thank god i didn’t see too many on the way. Luckily we chose a day when it was 40 degrees, and the majority is uphill on really rough terrain.

The view was incredible, and we were joined by dolphins at one point who swam right past us.

We had heard that there are a few German towns a few hours North of Ilha Santa Catarina, the most obvious of which is Blumenau. We knew there were a few Bavarian looking buildings but I was not expecting this:

Unfortunately we had just missed Summerfest (Oktoberfest in Summer) and the town was quite quiet but it was still surreal supping on a stein in the middle of a tropical rain-forest.

From Blumenau we headed North again leaving Santa Catarina and entering Parana where our first stop was Curitiba. 2 Quotes from the Lonely Planet – “Curitiba is not particularly sexy or sophisticated” and “It is not a beautiful city”. Bollocks:

We have really enjoyed our stay here. There is a really interesting art and music scene, and in the 70’s and 80’s a lot of money spent preserving old colonial buildings so it is a great place to walk around. It also on the high plains so is much cooler then any where else we have been yet – 25 to 30ish degrees.

From Curatiba we fist went to Vila Velha, a series of ancient sand stone columns eroded over thousands of years.

Then something we had been really excited about. The Sierra Verde Express, a train that runs from Curitiba to Morrietes along the side of jungle covered mountains, over huge gorges and waterfalls with views all the way to the Atlantic. This was, without any shadow of doubt, the worst tourist experience of my life. We had  a “tour guide” even though we specifically bought tickets for a carriage with out one. Her microphone was turned up to 11. For 3.5 hours.

Anytime anything of interest came up she would urge everyone to climb over each other to wildly point their cameras vaguely in the right direction and click away like a maniacs. It was soul destroyingly dreadful. I firmly believe that most people are intelligent enough to be able to look out the window with out instruction and locate for themselves the 200 ft waterfall, and even take a picture of it if they felt like it. In one of the photo opportunity scrums the fat bloke in front of Nikki elbowed her in the face whilst flailing his camera laden arms around and broke her sunglasses. Anyway, to be fair the view was epic and if you could tune out the “tour guide” and fight off the other deranged tourists there was some amazing stuff to be seen. Even though we had return tickets we took the bus back….

Leaving for Igacu falls tomorrow night, popping into Paraguay for some tax free shopping, then into Argentina for steak, wine and camping. See you again!

Just before I go a quick update for “New Stuff I like”

10) Shouting Oi! to everyone and not getting strange looks

11) Curitiba. You are wrong Lonely Planet, wrong I say.

We have now said goodbye to Paraty 

And are currently in Ilha Santa Catarina, but getting here has been very rough. The plan was simple – 6 hour bus from Paraty to São Paulo, a stop over of 5 hours and then an 11 hour sleeper bus to Florianopolis, state capital of Santa Catarina. First part of the mission was relatively painless. On arriving in São Paulo and trying to use an ATM, however, I realesaed that some @#$% head had been using my card to withdraw thousands of pounds, which was strange as I still had the only card for that account. After speaking to Lloyds TSB for hours (at GBP1.68 a minute) i was told “if you just pop into your branch we’ll arrange a new card for you”. When I said I was away for another 6.5 months she said to just “pop in when you get back”. Never has the word “pop” upset me so much. Luckily I have a back up account which we are using and I should be refunded everything within a few days.

Anyway, after all the stress of this we only had an hour and half to wait, and we somehow walked into the executive waiting room with air con and comfy seats and waited for our bus. When it came I was impressed. We had paid extra for a “Leito” or sleeper, which means the seats recline almost to horizonatal, and after an hour or so Nikki and I were fast asleep. I woke up at about 6 in the morning happy in the knowldege that in an hours time we would be in Florianoplois. Nikkis face/mood told me otherwise. Unbeknown to me we had been stationary on the freeway for 6 hours due to a massive mud slide so 6 lanes of traffic were being filtered through just 1. This meant our bus was 7 hours late. 7 hours. Late. with NO FOOD STOPS!!!

But we finally got to Florianopolis which, despite all that we had read and heard is a fairly non descript bland city full of malls and mcdonalds and pizza huts and the like.

Still, we were only there for 2 nights to rest up and then we were heading to the beaches, where I am now writting this. The town we are in is like one of the quaint European holiday resorts like Aya Napa, Lanzerote, Faliraki or even Magaluf.

Needless to say we were a bit dissapointed that we have travelled all this way to end up here, but yesterday we did stumble accross some amazing sand dunes

A really nice beach

Some ancient graffatti (someone really ought to clean that off)

Some great birds and other beasts

And, as ever, some amazing plant life

So all in all we think the island has potential. We were warned that the north was over developed but apparently there are some much quieter villages with even nicer beaches and bigger dunes further south. we will see tomorrow, and I shall update you forthwith.

Before I go, a quick update of “New Stuff I Like”

9) Churascaria. If you like meat then this is for you. Men with sticks skewered with meat (including delicious chicken hearts) slicing off as much as you like. I ate so much though this almost went in “New Stuff I Don’t Like”.

We have now left the Ilha Grande, where on our last day I felt like a cross between Steve Zissou and Terry Nutkins

Our last night was good – a couple of drinks and a nice dinner then bed at midnight. 2 minutes after having turned the lights out, however, the whole island had a power cut. No power = no fan. The solution? Blackout beers. This seemed very sensible until 7:15 the following morning when we had to leave.

Anyway, after a fairly treacherous few hours of hot hot hot travel (our bus thermometer said the outside temperature was 44 degrees at one point)  we finally got to Paraty, a well preserved colonial town.

We thought, though interesting, there wouldn’t be much to do here, and in the day tine once you have seen all the sites that is true. We went for a nice dinner in an Argentine style Grill (I had fillet steak and Nikki had vegetable kebabs, thanks for asking) and thought we wouldn turn in early. At night, however, the town comes alive

The entertainment centres on one of the town squares, but across the river they had a stand where there were pre carnival rehersals

We are looking forward to another similar night tonight, then tomorrow morning we start an epic journey – 6 Hours to Sao Paulo then change buses for another 12 hours to Florianopolis. Wish us luck…

Before I go, a quick “New Stuff I Like” update

7) Hellonicas. Hmmmm, planty…….

8) Street cake vendors (pay attention Whitefoot). We NEED this in Britain. Write to your MP.

errr, no. More of that later.

So we left Rio after another couple of nights,  and got the bus to Angra dos Reis. I was quite reassured at how comfortable the buses were even though we were only on it for 3 hours or so. We have some mamouth 24 hr+ journeys coming up soon but if all the buses are of simillar standard it should be tolerable.

Angra dos reis is a nice enough Place

but the main reason for us heading there was to catch the catamaran to Ilha Grande (thanks Sara).

Nikki has described the place a cross between Typhoon Lagoon and Jurrasic Park. It is 200km in circumfrance and covered in thick Jungle and forms part of Brazil’s Atlantic Rainforest.  We found a great Poussada owned by a guy called Pillel who has been really helpful.

On day one we packed our day sacks, strapped into our adventure sandals and set off into the deep jungle on an 8km trek.

We were in no way prepared for the fact we were climbing mountains covered in dense vegetation and full of Satans minions:

There are also loads of red squirels. You would be looking at a photo of one now were it not for the loudest annoying  girl who was behind us and stopped to look at what I was photographing and then shouted “thats a bit scrawny compared to the ones in Regents Park”. I was going to point out that they are a different species, but she really was too stupid to understand.

Anyway, the point of this walk? It takes you to 3 of the islands, (and in the case of #3 some say Brazil’s) best beaches. We had just climbed down from the top of this hill:

then got to beach #1 Las Palmas:

#2 Pousso:

#3 The last beach, Lopes Mendes is possibly the best I have ever seen:

The next day we went on an all day snorkling tour of the island
which was great but do you think that a) we put on enough suncream and
everythng was fine or b) we now look like we have been involved in a
chip-pan fire?

Correct.

(Nikki says sorry mum)

We did see some amazing fish, but none of the island’s Turtles.

Other interesting Fauna on the Island:

Blue crabs that hang out next to us whilst we have breakfast

Eagles that are everywhere

And intresting Flora:

Due to sunburn today we are in the shade all day planning our next moves. I think we will be here for 3 or 4 more nights, then we are heading further down the Costa Verde via Paraty to Ilha Santa Catarina where we hope to spend carnival in Florinopolis, and from there inland to Iguacu Falls.

Before I go a quick update for “New Stuff I Like”

5) Açai and Guarana smoothies. Hmmmm, antioxidents…..

6) Per kilo restaurants. A fantastically sensible idea.

We are still in Rio and its still amazing. Went for a walk today from our hotel in Ipanema via Aprodor down to Copacabana. Saw some fairly epic stuff on the way:

After this we again broke away from all the other tourists and took the cable car up Sugar Loaf mountain. (a tenner to the first person to spot us)

 The view from here is spectacular

 especialy if you  like watching jets take off and land beneath you (Jonny Burr).

moving on –

 A section I will try and update as often as possible is going to be called “New Stuff I Like”.

 1) Apim Frito. Plantainy goodness.

 2) Guarana. Nector of the Gods.

3) Caiprahinas. Not technicaly new, but amazing when done properly.

 4) My new 20mm f1.7 lens. Excellent for night photos.

 Off for some island life tomorrow, will update soon from my hamock. Ciao!

So, we are at last here. Its amazing. So hot and fecund.

A wise man (Sam Jones) once told me he was the whitest man in Brazil. No more my friend. Untill today that title was mine. Now, however, I am the redest man in Brazil.

We have been staying in the grim Ipanema Beach House. The room was damp, windowless, and hot. We have now upgraded to an air conditioned hotel room in down town Ipanema, a block from the beach. Now finally we can get a good night sleep and Nikki wont be eaten alive by mosquitos.

Yesterday we decided to branch off the beaten track and went up Corcovado mountain to be redeemed by Christ. He was looking good.

So were we.

This next bit will probably only intrest Mr Mathiason but I rode the best outdoor escalator I have ever seen.

Luckily within my first 24hrs i managed to see this guy:

I was really worried that by choosing South America I may not see any.

Our plans are now to spend another 2 nights in Rio then we are off down south to Ilha Grande for a week or so just to lounge around for a bit. I need to get used to Caiprinhas.

Thats all for now, GO AWAY.